During our time in Flagstaff, I was invited to take a trip up to Big Mountain. Since there were limited resources in that region, most of our walkers were unable to attend; however, the Japanese contingent were asked to go – as Jun-san had visited the region 30 years ago the last time The Longest Walk came through. Unfortunately, Jun-san came down with the horrible flu that laid many of our walkers out, and I was able to attend in here stead. Marek from Poland also joined as, as did Ammon Russell who grew up in that region.
We set out Sunday afternoon for the nearly three hour drive onto the Navajo Reservation. After a nearly 30 minute drive down a dirt road we arrived at the home of the Elder Pauline. I was amazed how few houses could be seen along the way – I found out later that many of these homes are upwards of 5 miles apart from each other.
We were greeted by Pauline and her son Danny who translated for us, from her Navajo tongue into English. This was then translated into Japanese for Wako-san. We gathered into a circle, there were nearly 20 of us all-told, and Pauline told us a little bit about her experience with the first Longest Walk and then talked about her life as a resistor to the Navajo relocation that occurred over thirty years ago. Pauline has been living on this land as a “trespasser” despite the fact that her family has been here for generations. She told us that she and the nearly 150 other families who refused to accept the new boundary lines (giving the land to the Hopi tribe) have been living rough lives ever since.
She has two homes on this land; a small, cement block structure that she lives in most of the year. She also has a traditional hogan about a quarter of a mile down the road that she spends the cold, winter months in.
Neither of these structures has electricity or running water. The nearest water is from a pump at a spring a half a mile down the road. At over 80 years of age, Pauline is strong and moves quickly; but she does have assistance from sheep herder, Owen (she has 17 sheep and 17 milking goats) to help her with collecting water and firewood. There is also Velia Yazzie who checks in on her (and over 100 other families) health and well being. She told me that in 18 years on the job, despite the secluded conditions, there has never been an accident at someones home. She let me know that people seem to know when something might be going wrong with their health as they always seem to find their way to a family member's home or to the hospital. I found that quite the amazing fact.
After a good night's rest Pauline took us on a tour of the area surrounding her home. She showed us Hopi ruins, as well as an old stonewalled structure that was a former trading post. She took us down into the canyon where a slim creek ran through and stopped to tell us that this creek used to run much faster and fuller. The Peabody Coal Mine, located 20 miles away, has been a major source of environmental degradation to this area. While activists have been able to stop the plant for dumping their slurry into the water, they are still draining the aquifers of the region, 'causing these families sole water source to become endangered.
Mikano Shonin offered a chanting service and Wako-san performed the Water chant in Hawaiian. The rest of the group offered tobacco and prayers for the water as well.
We continued our walk down the canyon and Pauline asked that we stop and sit next to a Pnyon tree near the creek. One of our coordinators, Crystal Uchino, had asked her if she would please allow us to record a statement for our Longest Walk Manifesto that we will be taking to Washington. She said that she would be willing to record that here while sitting in the canyon. So, we an audiotape rolling she told us in her language about how sacred this land was to her, and had been since time immemorial. That she was concerned that the Peabody plant was continuing to drain the aquifers that provided water for the spiritual medicines and foods that grow here. She talked about how she felt alone in her fight against the relocation of her people and the burden that placed on her. She told us that all around us; the tree, the soul, the plants...were all prayer to her and that she was saddened by the destruction of the lands. She also said that she was very concerned about the upcoming Presidential election – but at the same time she expressed that she didn't feel she should continue to vote when she is not being represented – that elected officials never come to her land to here about her concerns and the concerns of her people.
We thanked her for her statement and let her know we would take it with us to Washington. I have to add here, that this is not the first time on our travels that I have heard from Native peoples about lack of representation from the State or Federal levels. With so many devastating environmental and human right concerns effecting our First Nations,it is disheartening that so little is being done. I also find it disturbing that I had to come on this walk to learn of so many of these injustices taking place – that the national media is devoid of this level of reporting. But I'm sure I'm preaching to the choir here, my friends.
After our tour we were asked to go out to her cornfield and clear it of tumbleweeds to get ready for this year's planting. Now, I have never had any experience with tumbleweeds before – save for those romantic pictures of them rolling across the plains. They always looked so – gentle and kinda cuddly – let me just tell you that I have been forever dissuaded of that notion. There is nothing cuddly about tumbleweeds, as my torn little paws can attest to. No matter though – we were out there for a couple of hours and cleared the heck out of that field – creating tumbleweed bonfires along the way. It was all very satisfying.
The following day we took a drive to Big Mountain so we could offer prayers and tobacco at this sacred site.) We all piled into the back of Ammon's pick-up truck and bounced along the dusty red road. The Japanese took the opportunity (with a little prodding from me) to sing some celebration songs in Japanese, as well as some of their common children's tunes. I sang them a (very) short version of 100 Bottles of Beer on the Wall in response.
When we arrived at Big Mountain, Makino Shonin burned incense and chanted namu myoho renge kyo. We also offered prayers and tobacco for this cherished land. It was a beautiful day and the ceremony was very moving.
That evening we were treated to a meal by Velia of Navajo tacos with blue corn frybread and then were regaled by stories from both Pauline and Velia.
In all, we had a lovely time – as we were leaving, Pauline offered to show us her winter hogan and asked that we all take a little of the dirt from around her home and bless ourselves with it for our long journey head. We thanked her deeply for her hospitality and stories and then bounced our way back along the road towards Flagstaff.
I was so thankful to be a part of this sidetrip into the Navajo Nation and want to give a special thanks to Kyoko for fixing such fabulous Japanese food – my goodness we ate so well. I also just want to thank all the Japanese folk for their patience with my lack of the language and helping to teach me some basic words.
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